Cauliflower Gratin with Queso Cotija

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

NOTES: Cotija is a salty, crumbly cheese, available in Mexican markets and many well-stocked supermarkets. If you can't find it, substitute a mixture of 6 ounces shredded jack cheese and 6 ounces crumbled feta. You can assemble this gratin (through step 2) a day ahead; cover and chill.

  2 heads cauliflower (3 lb. total), rinsed
3/4 cup whipping cream
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
    Salt and fresh-ground pepper
  1 pound fresh poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into
    strips (see "Tip from the Test Kitchen," page 105)
 12 ounces cotija cheese, shredded (see notes)

1. In a 6- to 8-quart pan over high heat, bring 3 quarts water to a boil. Meanwhile, trim and discard leaves from cauliflower; separate heads into florets. Slice florets 1/4 inch thick. Add sliced cauliflower to boiling water and cook until tender-crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water; drain well.

2. In a glass measure, stir together cream and cayenne. Line bottom of a shallow 3 1/2- to 4-quart baking dish with a fourth of the cauliflower slices. Drizzle a fourth of the cream mixture over cauliflower. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and top evenly with a fourth of the poblano chile strips and cotija cheese. Repeat three times to layer gratin, ending with cheese.

3. Bake in a 450[degrees] oven until cheese is browned and cauliflower is tender when pierced, about 30 minutes. Let stand 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Per serving: 195 cal., 69% (135 cal.) from fat; 11 g protein; 15 g fat (9.3 g sat.); 7 g carbo (1.8 g fiber); 609 mg sodium; 47 mg chol

Garlic Green Beans with Manchego

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

  2 tablespoons olive oil
  2 pounds green beans, rinsed and ends trimmed
1/3 cup minced garlic
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup lime juice
    Salt and fresh-ground pepper
2/3 cup shredded Manchego cheese

1. Pour olive oil into a 12-inch frying pan or 14-inch wok over medium-high heat. Add green beans and stir often until tender-crisp and lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Add garlic and stir just until fragrant, 1 minute.

2. Add wine, lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste; stir until liquid boils, 1 minute. Pour into a serving dish and sprinkle with Manchego cheese. Serve hot.

Per serving: 94 cal., 53% (50 cal.) from fat; 3.7 g protein; 5.5 g fat (2.3 g sat.); 7.9 g carbo (1.5 g fiber); 53 mg sodium; 8 mg chol.

Chile-Spiced Sweet Potato Tamales

PREP AND COOK TIME: 1 1/2 hours, plus 1 hour to steam

MAKES: 12 to 15 tamales

NOTES: Dried corn husks are available in some well-stocked supermarkets and in Mexican markets. Before using, separate husks and discard silks; soak husks in hot water until pliable, about 20 minutes. You will need about 15 large, well-shaped husks for the tamales and 3 to 4 to tear into strips for tying, but we suggest soaking a few extra in case some tear in the process. You can make and steam the tamales up to a day ahead; cover and chill. Reheat in steamer 15 to 20 minutes.

  1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter, at room temperature
    2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar
    1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 1/2 pounds garnet or jewel sweet potatoes, scrubbed and halved
      lengthwise
  1/4 cup lard or additional butter
    1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth
1 1/4 cups dehydrated masa flour
    1 tablespoon baking powder
    2 canned chipotle chiles, drained and minced
      Salt and fresh-ground pepper
   20 dried corn husks, soaked (see notes)

1. In a small bowl, mix butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Set sweet potato halves, cut side up, in a baking dish, and rub cut sides equally with butter mixture. Bake in a 350[degrees] oven until soft when pressed, about 1 hour.

2. Scoop flesh from sweet potatoes (discard skins) into a bowl; mash with a fork until smooth.

3. In a 1- to 2-quart pan over low heat, melt lard. Pour in chicken broth and stir until warm. Add broth mixture to sweet potatoes; mix well. Gradually add masa flour, stirring until well blended. Stir in baking powder and chipotles and season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Tear 3 or 4 corn husks into long, thin strips. Lay a whole husk flat on a work surface, smooth side down, with one long edge closest to you. Spoon a scant 1/3 cup filling lengthwise down center of husk. Fold bottom edge over filling and roll up tamale. Tie each end with a thin strip of husk. Repeat until all filling is used.

5. In an 8- to 10-quart pan, position a rack at least 1 inch above 1 inch of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Set tamales on rack, lower heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and steam until filling is firm, about 1 hour, adding water to pan as needed to maintain 1-inch depth. Remove tamales and let stand at least 10 minutes before serving.

Per tamale: 132 cal., 47% (62 cal.) from fat; 2.2 g protein; 6.9 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 16 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 164 mg sodium; 12 mg chol.

Ancho Chile Pumpkin Pie

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours, plus 2 hours to cool

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

NOTES: You can make this pie up to a day ahead; when cool, cover and chill. Serve with lightly sweetened whipped cream.

      Pastry for a single-crust 9-inch pie, purchased or homemade
    1 can (15 oz.) pumpkin
1 2/3 cups whipping cream
    3 large eggs, beaten to blend
  1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
    1 tablespoon ground dried ancho chiles
    1 teaspoon cinnamon
  1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
  1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Line a 9-inch pie pan with the pastry and flute edges, then line pastry with foil. Partially fill with pie weights or dried beans.

2. Bake pie pastry in a 375[degrees] oven until edges are dry and barely golden, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully remove pie weights and foil. Reduce oven temperature to 350[degrees].

3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk pumpkin, cream, eggs, brown sugar, granulated sugar, ground chiles, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt until smooth.

4. Pour pumpkin mixture into hot pie crust and return pie to oven. Bake until center barely jiggles when shaken, about 45 minutes. Let cool to room temperature on a wire rack, at least 2 hours. Cut into wedges to serve.

Per serving: 329 cal., 52% (171 cal.) from fat; 3.3 g protein; 19 g fat (11 g sat.); 36 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 232 mg sodium; 112 mg chol.

Thanksgiving prep plan

Much of this menu can be prepared ahead. It will be easier to get everything on the table if you have help in the kitchen after the turkey comes out of the oven.

* Up to 1 week ahead: Make spicy pecans. Make guajillo-tamarind glaze.

* 3 days ahead: Shop for remaining ingredients (including turkey if using a frozen one; thaw in refrigerator). Bake cornbread for dressing. Grill corn for mashed potatoes.

* 2 days ahead: Assemble cornbread-chorizo dressing. Roast and peel chiles for poblano gravy and cauliflower gratin; chill airtight. Make mashed potatoes.

* 1 day ahead: Purchase turkey, if using fresh. Make sweet potato tamales. Cut up vegetables and fruit for turkey (step 2); chill airtight. Trim green beans, chop garlic, and shred cheese for garlic green beans; cover separately and chill. Assemble cauliflower gratin. Make pumpkin pie.

* 3 to 4 hours ahead: Roast turkey. Remove cauliflower gratin and cornbread-chorizo dressing from refrigerator.

* 30 to 40 minutes before serving: Reheat potatoes. Remove turkey from oven and increase heat to 450[degrees]; bake cauliflower gratin.

* About 20 minutes before serving: Make garlic green beans. Make poblano gravy. Reheat tamales. Bake cornbread-chorizo dressing.